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You are here: Home / Article / Grow the Best Cucumbers with These 12 Steps

Grow the Best Cucumbers with These 12 Steps

by Amy 16 Comments

Grow the Best Cucumbers with These 12 Steps: Cucumbers can be a tricky crop to grow for many gardeners. This guide reviews the growing needs of cucumbers and some strategies for minimizing pest and disease.

Cucumbers can be a tricky crop to grow for many gardeners. This guide reviews the growing needs of cucumbers and some strategies for minimizing pest and disease so you can grow your best cucumbers.

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Cucumbers are prone to diseases and pests. They may also be finicky about soil composition, sun exposure, or the volume of water they have access to. Any of these elements may affect the health of your crop. Here are 12 ways to improve your chances of growing and harvesting an abundance of healthy cucumbers.

1: Encourage Healthy Soil

The soil for cucumbers should be rich, but not heavy. One month before planting, amend the soil with compost and manure, and loosen it with a digging fork or broadfork in the no-till garden.

If you don’t have access to homemade compost or local livestock manure, adding store-bought worm castings to a small garden is a good idea.

Get a soil test to determine whether your garden soil is ideal for growing cucumbers. (If you need some guidance, your local extension office can help you out.)

Cucumbers enjoy a soil pH between 5.5 and 7. The higher the pH, the less susceptible to fungal disease the plants will be. If your soil doesn’t meet this specification, look for organic soil amendments that either increase or decrease the pH.

>>>Get my Guide to Organic Soil Amendments and find out which amendments are right for you.

2: Choose Resistant Varieties

Grow the Best Cucumbers with These 12 Steps: Cucumbers can be a tricky crop to grow for many gardeners. This guide reviews the growing needs of cucumbers and some strategies for minimizing pest and disease.Cucumbers are susceptible to a number of diseases and pests. By choosing varieties that resist disease, you’ll be one step closer to success. The following popular varieties are a few that are currently resistant to bacterial wilt, a disease spread by cucumber beetles.

These varieties are also resistant to mosaic virus, downy mildew, and powdery mildew.

  • Marketmore 76 (slicing cucumber)
  • Marketmore 80 (slicing cucumber)
  • Salad Bush (slicing cucumber, dwarf–good for containers)
  • Regal (pickling cucumber)

For more information, see Cucumber Varieties: Best Bets and Easy-to-Grow.

3: Plant in the Right Place

Cucumbers can be finicky about the amount of sunlight and water they receive. They like heat, moisture, well-drained soil, and evening shade, according to How to Grow More Vegetables.

Plant cucumbers on the east side of the garden so they can access the morning sun. Since they are susceptible to mildew, the morning sun will dry the dew from the leaves and minimize mildew, according to The Impatient Gardener. Try planting something tall on the west side of cucumbers—such as sunflowers or dill—to provide some evening shade.

Cucumbers like consistent moisture, but they should not be grown where soil remains soggy. Try raised beds if drainage is an issue.

Because cucumbers are so susceptible to pests and disease, rotate where you plant them from year to year. You’ll also want to be aware of what was planted in a section before and after cucumbers. For example, melons, pumpkins, and squash are all related to cucumbers, so none of these plants should be planted before or after one another.

You will also want to take care not to plant cucumbers near potatoes or particularly aromatic herbs, according to Carrots Love Tomatoes.

4: Sow Correctly

Direct sow cucumber seeds in the garden once the soil temperature exceeds 60 degrees (Get a soil thermometer!). Although cucumbers can be started indoors and transplanted outside in late spring, they tend to be more disease resistant when they are direct sown outside.

Plant a radish seed with every cucumber seed to protect against cucumber beetles, according to Carrots Love Tomatoes. You won’t eat these radishes, but rather let them grow, flower, and go to seed.

If you’ve had trouble with cucumber diseases in the past, give your plants extra space so the leaves can dry out sufficiently. Plant them 48 inches apart and 1 inch deep.

To avoid the bulk of pest trouble, direct sow cucumbers on the late side of your planting window. For example, my planting window is typically the last week of April through the first week of June. So I would plant in June. This way, you’ll avoid the height of the damage.

Or start sowing two weeks after your frost date. Sow continuously every three weeks until eight weeks after your spring frost date. This way, if you have some early losses, you’ll still have younger plants coming up later.

See: Bacterial Wilt: Why I Delay Planting Cucumber

Grow the Best Cucumbers with These 12 Steps: Cucumbers can be a tricky crop to grow for many gardeners. This guide reviews the growing needs of cucumbers and some strategies for minimizing pest and disease.

5: Grow Vertically

Cucumbers are natural climbers, so let them climb! Growing them on trellis netting will allow for better air circulation to minimize disease. A trellis will also make it easier to harvest. Here’s another DIY trellis idea.

While cucumbers like the ability to grow vertically, they will dry out more quickly which can be potentially problematic. Tips #6 and #7 will help remedy that!

Read more: 3 Reasons to Grow Cucumbers Vertically

6: Mulch or Interplant with Companion Crops

Cucumbers are sensitive to weed overgrowth, as weeds can cause crowding, which reduces air flow. Certain types of weeds can also harbor the dreaded cucumber beetle. Mulching the cucumber bed will help keep weeds down while keeping soil moist.

Another way to reduce weeds is to interplant rows of cucumbers with rows of companion crops that offer a mutually beneficial relationship. Sweet corn, beans (I like Blue Lake bush beans), peas, radish, and lettuce are a few examples of crops that are said to be cucumber companions.

>>>Would you like to learn more about improving the biodiversity of your garden, reducing maintenance, and increasing yield?

You’ll find loads of information just like this in my book, The Suburban Micro-Farm.

The Suburban Micro-Farm Book

7: Water Cucumbers Appropriately

Since cucumbers are 99% water, it’s important to not let them dry out, according to The Self-Sufficient-ish Bible. If the leaves show signs of wilting due to dry soil, it is an indication that the plants are stressed, making them more susceptible to pest and disease according to Gardening When It Counts.

Watering cucumbers is tricky, however, since cucumbers are susceptible to fungal growth if the leaves get wet frequently. Use drip irrigation to keep the leaves dry, or water cucumbers in the morning so they can dry off in the sun throughout the day, according to The Weekend Homesteader.

Grow the Best Cucumbers with These 12 Steps: Cucumbers can be a tricky crop to grow for many gardeners. This guide reviews the growing needs of cucumbers and some strategies for minimizing pest and disease.

8: Attract Beneficial Insects and Pollinators

Cucumbers often have difficulty with pollination, which can result in misshapen fruit. Attract beneficial insects and pollinators to encourage good pollination. Sunflower and dill are cucumber companions that encourage pollination. Other perennial herbs could be planted as a permanent border near the cucumber bed. Some examples are tarragon, chives, comfrey, lemon balm, and yarrow.

Create permanent walkways in your garden. Rather than tilling a large area each year, create permanent beds and walkways. Pathways seeded with white clover will attract beneficial insects and pollinators, while pathways of wood chips will encourage beneficial fungal networks in the soil that will control cucumber beetles and the larvae.

9: Repel and Treat DISEASE

First: Repel

Your first line of defense against disease is prevention. It’s much harder (and usually impossible) to get rid of disease once it pops up.

See: 12 Steps to Preventing Garden Pests Naturally

As mentioned above, cucumbers are susceptible to bacterial wilt, mosaic virus, downy mildew, and powdery mildew among others. Follow the other recommendations listed in this article to avoid creating the conditions for a fungal outbreak.

Use antifungal solutions to repel and treat fungal outbreaks. Nasturtiums, garlic, oregano, and chamomile are all antifungal and will benefit cucumbers when planted near them. Use their cuttings as a mulch.

As a preventative, spray plants weekly with an antifungal essential oil mixture that includes rosemary, thyme, and other herbs. Spray plants early in the day to prevent fungal spores.

Second: Treat

Look regularly on the undersides of leaves for disease. If you spot something, there are a few things you can try. You may not be able to get rid of it completely, but you can extend the productive life of your plants.

If your soil is acidic, baking soda can increase soil pH and reduce fungal disease at the same time. Dissolve 1 tsp of baking soda in 1 quart of water and spray on the tops and undersides of leaves to control powdery mildew according to The Best of Organic Gardening.

A spray of chives or horsetail will dispel downy mildew according to Carrots Love Tomatoes. Horsetail contains 15-40% natural silica, which has long been used to protect against fungal diseases. Measure one ounce of dried herb. Boil one quart of water and pour it over the plant matter. Cool for 5 minutes, then steep it for four hours. Strain, then dilute the compost tea with one gallon of water.

Alternatively, add one to three scoops of horsetail powder to a 32-ounce spray bottle with warm water and shake to dissolve. May need to strain through cheesecloth to avoid clogging the sprayer. Increase the concentration if you don’t see favorable results.

Read more: Least Toxic Controls of Plant Diseases

Grow the Best Cucumbers with These 12 Steps: Cucumbers can be a tricky crop to grow for many gardeners. This guide reviews the growing needs of cucumbers and some strategies for minimizing pest and disease.

spotted cucumber beetle

Photo via Julie Feinstein @ Flickr

10: Repel and Treat PESTS

First: Repel

Adult cucumber beetles eat holes in the leaves, flowers, and stems, and chew on the fruit skin. They can transmit bacterial wilt and mosaic viruses.

Spotted cucumber beetles (Diabrotica undecimpunctata) overwinter in crop debris in the garden and lay eggs in the soil in spring. The larvae (also known as corn rootworm) hatch and feed on plant roots for 2-4 weeks. They produce three generations per year.

Striped cucumber beetles (Acalymma vittatum) overwinter in dense grass and weeds, feed on weed pollen, and then lay eggs. Larvae feed on the roots for 2-6 weeks, producing four generations per year.

The best line of defense against pests is to deter them as much as possible. Healthy plants will be less susceptible to an infestation, so take care to create optimal growing conditions.

Covering cucumber seedlings with floating row cover is the surest way to prevent cucumber beetles. When the plants begin to flower, lift the cover a few hours each morning so bees can pollinate, according to Rodale Organic Gardening Basics: Volume 7, Pests. If using a floating row cover, it will provide decent shade, so planting tall crops nearby won’t be necessary.

Tansy and catnip are said to deter the cucumber beetle, so plant them nearby. Alternatively, chop these herbs frequently throughout the season and mulch around the base of the cucumber plants.

Second: Treat

For a cucumber beetle infestation, mix one handful of agricultural lime with one handful of wood ash in a 2-gallon watering can. Then add water, according to The Best of Organic Gardening. Spray the leaves of beetle-infested plants. Keep in mind that lime will increase soil pH.

Alternatively, a spray made with kaolin clay will do a similar job according to Mother Earth News. I’ve had lukewarm success with cucumber beetle traps.

Handpick beetles in the morning when they are slower to fly and drop them in a pale of soapy water.

Pull out and destroy or dispose of infested plants at the end of the season. These plants should not be added to your compost bin. Forage chickens in infested beds at the end of the season. They will hunt for beetles or larvae that may be hiding in the soil.

Rotate crops after an infestation by not growing melons, squash, or cucumbers near the area in the following two years.

Grow the Best Cucumbers with These 12 Steps: Cucumbers can be a tricky crop to grow for many gardeners. This guide reviews the growing needs of cucumbers and some strategies for minimizing pest and disease.

11: Harvest your Best Cucumbers

Now that you’ve taken such great care of your cucumber plants, it’s time for them to take care of you. Cucumber harvest usually occurs in late summer to early fall. With all the care that’s gone into growing your best cucumbers, harvest at the peak of freshness!

Plants will be more productive if they are harvested often. Harvest cucumbers daily when they are six inches long, three inches long for pickling cucumbers.

Tip: Wear gloves! Prickly spines will hurt!

12: What to do with your Cucumber Harvest

Here’s the fun part!

  • Granny’s Bread and Butter Pickles
  • How to Make Kosher Dill Pickles
  • 4 Ways of Preserving the Harvest
  • Cucumber Mint Jam
  • Cucumber Picante Sauce

Need more ideas for growing vegetables in the permaculture garden?

READ NEXT:

  • Choose the Right Trellis for Your Climbing Vegetables
  • Starting Seeds Indoors: A Step-by-Step Guide
  • Your Guide to Preventing Pests in the Garden

Have you had success growing cucumbers? What’s your secret to success?

Grow the Best Cucumbers with These 12 Steps: Cucumbers can be a tricky crop to grow for many gardeners. This guide reviews the growing needs of cucumbers and some strategies for minimizing pest and disease. #vegetablegardening

Related Posts:

  • Two Easy Cucumber Recipes: Herbed Cucumber Chips & Watermelon Salad
  • Choose the Right Trellis for your Climbing Vegetables
  • 12 Steps to Preventing Garden Pests Naturally
  • In the Garden: What to do in October

Filed Under: Article Tagged With: Growing Vegetables

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Comments

  1. Mary says

    Just the info I needed. Thank you!

    Reply
  2. Tessa says

    I need to plant my cukes with other tall things so they get some protection from our crazy winds!

    Reply
    • Amy says

      Good idea!

      Reply
  3. Margaret @ Pure Pearl Homestead says

    Oh! Your pictures are gorgeous!! Especially the one after tip #7. Anyways, I’ve always had horrible luck growing cucumbers and now that I read your post I’m thinking it’s a watering issue. We have lots of iron in our water and I just sprinkle the whole garden. I thought, “cucumbers need lots of water, they’ll be ok if the sprinkler makes puddles around them”. Now I know to be more careful, especially about keeping their leaves dry! Thanks so much!

    Reply
    • Amy says

      Thank you! I hope it’s helpful, and please let me know if you notice any improvement 🙂

      Reply
  4. Sophie says

    I’ve had a problem with mosaic before, so interested to learn how to fix it. But I’m really confused about the pollination…. I’ve always been told to pick off male flowers to avoid pollination…. Obviously I’m growing self fruiting. Pollination causes them to be bitter which isn’t great for salad cucumbers. I’ve proved this true from “bitter” experience. Does anyone else have thoughts or info or advice on this??

    Reply
    • Amy says

      Wow, great technical questions 🙂

      Re: pollination
      Cucumbers are self-pollinating, meaning that each plant produces both its own male and female flowers. Keeping both flower types will be essential for pollination and fruit-set. However, more male flowers are always produced, which means as long as you’re getting good fruit set, you can pick some of the male flowers for edible treats. The only cucumber varieties that don’t need male flowers at all are seedless, greenhouse-grown cucumbers. For these, you are correct: pollination can cause bitterness.

      Re: bitterness
      For regular, garden-grown cucumbers, bitterness is usually caused by environmental factors: temperature fluctuations, uneven watering, etc. This website discusses this issue.

      Reply
      • Sophie says

        Thanks for that info. I am indeed growing the greenhouse variety … I live in Ireland where we aren’t guaranteed a lot of sun!

        Reply
        • Amy says

          Yay, I’m glad we figured all that out! I’m excited to have a greenhouse of my own one day 🙂

          Reply
  5. Shirley Ingalls says

    Great post! Definitely great tips and advises on growing cucumbers. My sister just started a small garden and one of her most favorite veggies is cucumber, and she considers it important to grow lots of them this season. I’m sure she’ll be very glad to read your post and to have your ideas on mind as a helpful guide. Thank you for sharing this great info. Greets, Shirley

    Reply
  6. Leonard says

    Have you ever had a pest that drills into your cucumbers before they are ready to pick?

    Reply
    • Amy says

      I have not had experience with a pest that drills into the cucumber. Is there a worm inside? It could be pickleworm.

      Reply
  7. Ellen says

    Excellent article, Amy! My teenage son enjoys growing the cucumbers for our family. So far we’ve had very good luck with it. We have an abundance every year. I enjoy cucumber, tomato, and thinly sliced onion together with salt. Yum. I definitely want to try your recipes.

    Reply
  8. Doug says

    I had cucumber, eggplant and beans in the same bed. Pesky spider mites started in on my beans, moved to my eggplant then started on my cucumbers. I started pruning leaves where the pests would gather in clumps on the end of the leaves and instead of using a sprinkler to water, I took my garden hose with a spray attachment and literally power wash my plants to water. This has so far been my organic approach to getting rid of the mites which literally attacked by the thousands!

    Reply
    • Amy says

      A strong spray of water is really your best defense, so you’re doing great. Also be sure to keep your garden well watered, as the mites will suck more plant juices as there is less water available to them.

      Reply
  9. Mike the Gardener says

    Great list Amy!

    My favorite to grow wasn’t on your list. I am particular about growing straight 8’s. I know they aren’t a variety that has resistant qualities to it, but they are such abundant producers of fruit. They also grow great vertically which is another one of your points that you made.

    Reply

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