Mulching is an essential component of an ecologically rich permaculture garden. Here are five types of mulch, as well as when and how to apply them.
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What is Mulch?
Mulch is a biodegradable layer of organic material added to the top of soil in a garden or landscaping. In the permaculture garden, it mimics a forest floor that is covered with a protective layer of leaf litter.
In nature, bare soil equals damaged soil.
Is Mulching just an Extra Task?
It’s easy to wonder if mulching is worth the effort. After all, many gardeners are strapped for time and barely find time to plant and harvest, let alone keep everything weeded.
While it may seem like an extra task on the to-do list, mulch can create a healthier ecosystem and reduce the amount of time you need to spend on other activities like weeding, watering, fertilizing, and controlling pests.
Let’s look at some of the benefits of mulching, as well as the best types of materials to use, and when to use them.
The Benefits of Mulch
There are many positive returns for your mulching efforts. They include:
- Retaining moisture
- Preventing erosion
- Creating humus, the building block of topsoil
- Fertilizing
- Suppressing weeds
- Making an attractive top dressing
In a permaculture garden, a gardener grows food in harmony with the local ecosystem. Permaculture is also a design system that seeks out multifunctional efforts: those that provide many benefits with a single effort.
As you can see, mulching certainly provides many benefits with a single effort!
How to Use Mulch Relative to Your Climate
Although mulching can be very beneficial, how you do it depends greatly on your climate and the season at hand. This activity will be different for everyone.
For example, gardeners in hot/dry climates should rely on a thick layer of mulch to retain moisture and provide protection from the hot sun.
Meanwhile, gardeners in cool/wet climates should use a thin layer of mulch to protect the soil from washing away in heavy rains, while still allowing excess moisture to evaporate. In fact, fungal issues can result from mulching too thickly in this climate. It can also attract slugs and snails.
So it’s important to be intentional about mulching for a specific reason, including adapting to changing seasons.
In my climate, I experience cool/wet springs followed by hot/dry summers and freezing winters. Therefore, I mulch my garden beds with a light layer in the spring, adding deeper layers summer through winter.
Mulch is a crucial component of the no-till garden, where a healthy, living soil ecology is the primary focus.
5 Types of Mulch and Their Uses
Let’s get into reviewing the different types of mulch and how they can be useful in a permaculture garden, in which we seek out natural ways to provide many benefits at once.
With that in mind, I like to focus on using plants and free materials as mulch.
However, you might be surprised to learn that many of the free materials typically promoted as beneficial for the garden can actually be quite detrimental. Keep reading to learn about how to select safe materials for mulching naturally.
swiss chard border with sweet alyssum living mulch
1: Living Mulch
Living plants—either annual or perennial—planted underneath a primary crop can help to suppress weeds, retain moisture, reduce soil erosion, and create habitat for beneficial insects.
Because their roots are intact, they also provide food and habitat for beneficial soil organisms.
In the vegetable garden, seek out annual plants to use as living mulch. Meanwhile, use perennial plants as living mulch under edible perennial crops such as fruit trees.
For example, I wouldn’t grow comfrey, a perennial herb, in my vegetable garden. That’s because the soil in a vegetable garden is disturbed quite often for planting and maintenance, which isn’t a good environment for the roots of perennial plants.
A Few Examples of Living Mulches
Annual Mulches for the Vegetable Garden:
Learn more about growing annual flowers in the vegetable garden.
Perennial Mulches for Perennial Crops:
Can a living mulch smother the primary crop?
In short, yes, a living mulch can smother a crop if the mulch isn’t used appropriately.
Above, we learned that mulch should be used differently in different situations regarding climate and seasons. Therefore, it’s important to adapt the living mulch appropriately to the conditions at hand.
For example, when planting a living mulch in a hot/dry climate (in full sun), where you would normally use a deep layer of mulch, plant a compact living mulch to fully protect the soil.
Meanwhile, in a cool/wet climate (or in shade), plant a living mulch with a bit of space between the plants to allow excess moisture to escape and to allow each plant to spread out and access more sunshine.
Although many wildflowers have adapted to thrive when growing in competition with one another in a prairie, annual vegetables have typically not adapted to such conditions.
When in doubt, use fewer living mulch plants in the vegetable garden, and seek out those companions that don’t shade out the crop in question.
Another consideration is the root structure of the living plant and adjacent vegetable crop. Different plants have different root structures; some are shallow and fibrous, while others are narrow and deep. When the roots of the adjacent plant are a different type, the two are typically more compatible because they don’t compete for nutrients.
One of my favorite living mulch + vegetable combinations is Swiss chard and sweet alyssum. I discovered that the root structures of these companion plants are quite different (one deep and taprooted, the other shallow and fibrous), so they don’t compete against one another for nutrients. Rather, they benefit one another.
I also like to plant comfrey under my fruit trees, with the same effect. Deep-rooted comfrey plants get along well with shallow-rooted fruit trees.
Experiment to find your favorite combinations that work best for the conditions of your garden.
chopped comfrey; ready for spreading as a green mulch
2: Green Mulch
Green mulch is the use of fresh, green plant matter to smother weeds and provide a nutrient boost (fertilizer) to crops.
This type is can also be called “chop-and-drop” mulch because the green plants are often grown right where you intend to use the green mulch. Mulching in place reduces labor by reducing the need to haul in wheelbarrows full of organic material.
So for example, you can chop back living mulches regularly throughout the season and drop them right on the soil. You might do this to keep them short so that they continue to anchor and protect the soil while preventing them from shading out the main crop. This action can also keep them from setting seed, if that is undesired.
Common Green Mulches
In addition to the living mulches described above, the following are a few additional plants that make great green mulch.
Did you notice that many of these plants are considered to be weeds? You might wonder why I’ve listed common weeds such as chickweed, dandelion, and plantain as good mulches!
Weeds can actually help to heal and enrich damaged soil because they’re fast-growing, anchor a lot of roots in the soil to jumpstart the soil ecology, and provide a lot of green plant matter to provide a nutrient boost.
Learn more about when weeds are good and 5 weeds you want in your garden (and more details about how to use them beneficially).
How to Use Green Mulch Plants
Cut green mulch plants at the base, leaving their roots intact to feed beneficial soil organisms. Chop the green matter roughly into 3-inch pieces, and lay the green mulch on top of the soil. Be sure it does not come into direct contact with surrounding garden crops.
For a more attractive look, green mulch can be topped with a layer of leaf mulch or woodchip mulch (see Magic Mulch Combo below).
Would you like to learn more about improving the biodiversity of your garden, reducing maintenance, and increasing yield?
You’ll find loads of information just like this in my award-winning book, The Suburban Micro-Farm.
broccoli seedlings mulched with chopped weeds
3: Leaf Mulch
Did you know that pound for pound, the leaves of most trees contain twice as many minerals as manure?” Fall leaves are both a valuable mulch and soil builder all in one!
Leaf mulch is an attractive top-dressing in the garden, and helps to retain moisture. I collect leaves from the lawn and shred them with the lawn mower or leaf mulcher, and pile them in wire bins for use throughout the year.
Leaf mold (leaves that have composted for 2-3 years) is an excellent soil conditioner.
shredded leaf mulch in the garden bed
Wood Chips
Wood chips can be delivered—often for free—from local tree services (giving the driver a tip may ensure more deliveries in your future!). Wood chips are a perfect mulch to use around perennials. They should never make contact with the stems or trunks of the plants.
Wood chips that have broken down for 2-3 years are a gold mine of a soil conditioner. Use them without caution in the vegetable garden, under fruit trees as an attractive top dressing, or in the ‘Magic Mulch Combo’ in place of leaves.
*Magic Mulch Combo*
A study at Michigan State University researched leaf mulch to see whether it contributed to weed suppression or fertilization. The researchers found that leaf mulch did not serve much value as a weed suppressor or fertilizer source by itself.
However, when coupled with a nitrogen source (green mulch), the weed suppression and fertilization levels went up. So I’m a proponent of composting in place just like you would in your compost bin, by layering the greens and the browns.
‘Magic Mulch Combo’ of grass clippings topped with leaf mulch.
Though I use many types of green mulch around the garden, my favorite combo is using the abundant grass clippings from my neighbor.
I pile them thickly—about 1 to 2 inches—in the garden beds (but not touching the plants) and top with an equally thick layer of shredded leaves.
The gardens are happy, I’ve kept more organic material out of the waste stream, weeds are few, and it looks appealing with the leaf mulch on top. It also solved my problem of not having enough room in the compost bins to accommodate all of the grass clippings from the neighbors.
Herbicide Alert!
Be careful when using organic materials from outside sources! Of course, you probably don’t spray your yard with herbicides, but your neighbors may. Grass clippings are one of the biggest contributors of herbicide contamination to the garden, which can damage crops and poison soil for many years.
Learn more about how to keep herbicides out of your compost bin, even if you don’t spray.
Compost is an excellent amendment that is often used as a mulch all by itself. Did you know that bulk and bagged compost, even if it’s approved for organic agriculture, can be contaminated with herbicides? Learn how to purchase herbicide-free soil.
Preparing the Garden for Winter
Another ‘Magic Mulch’ option is using composted animal manure (horse, cow, chicken, rabbit, etc.) in place of green mulch.
Note: Ask questions about the origin of the manure. Unfortunately, manure can be laced with herbicides, or it can contain pharmaceuticals, which can damage crops and poison soil.
In the fall spread a thick layer of composted manure over the beds and top with a layer of shredded leaves or composted wood chips. This will not only protect the soil from the harsh winter temps, but it also improves soil quality.
More mulching ideas:
All in all, mulching is an important component of lasting soil health, water conservation, and time savings for the gardener. When the soil is happy, the plants are happy, too!
You’ll experience fewer pest problems and regenerate your soil’s fertility over time. This is part of the process of connecting to our place as active residents.
What’s your favorite way to mulch?
READ NEXT:
- 6 Reasons to Grow Borage in the Permaculture Garden
- How to Source Herbicide-Free Compost Soil
- Make a Worm Bin for Composting Food Scraps
>>> Get my free 19-page Guide to Organic Soil Amendments for more ideas:
Michael says
How does adding compost and mulch in the fall in preparation for winter square with a winter cover crop? Is the mulch sufficient soil protection? I live rainy Oregon and wonder if it would be best to somehow combine a mulch with a cover crop to prevent nutrient leaching but I can’t really imagine how I’d do it. Or is the cover crop unnecessary? Any thoughts are appreciated. Great post!
Amy says
Hi Michael. You bring up some great questions about mulching. I think a cover crop acts as a green mulch, in which case other mulches wouldn’t be necessary to use at the same time. Although, a compromise might be seeding the cover crop then covering the garden with straw, which would give the best coverage while still allowing for germination.
Cover crops take some work to turn over in the spring before planting, unless you use a tiller. Each cover crop has a specific set of nutrients it adds to the soil, like different types of mulches.
I think any mulch is much better than no mulch over the winter, but if you know what nutrient challenges your specific soil has, you might be able to choose the best mulch for the job. I don’t like to get too scientific here, so I just vary mulches each year to add variety.
I like that you’re already planning ahead for overwintering!
Jean Obrist says
You may want to note that rabbit manure can be used directly on plantings without composting it first. Or make a rabbit manure tea by filling a container 1/3 full of manure, then filling with water. Let it brew for two or three days, then use on garden and house plants.
Amy says
Rabbit manure is a fantastic fertilizer for the garden, although it doesn’t make a very good mulch.
Peggy Case says
Rabbits are good choppers and the manure falling through the cages is ready for using in the garden. Dump your peelings and unused veggies and weeds in the rabbit pen and the rabbits work night and day to produce the manure.
Rabbits are fun to watch as well as chickens. Two cute chickens in a cute coop means two fresh eggs a day. That is a lot to use in a week, unless you have a few egg-breakfast eaters. I used to eat one scrambled egg every day mixed with sauteed chopped veggies, but now only every other day. On egg day, I have a piece of nutty/seedy 12 grain toast with avocado instead of butter. I usually top the egg/veggie scramble with marinara sauce.
On the off day, I have steel-cut oats with raisins, chopped apple, cinnamon and walnuts, topped with skim milk.
Both of these breakfasts include a smoothie of banana, skim milk, sour cherries, flax seed, ginger and cinnamon.
Kathy says
How can you use purslane as a green mulch without ending up with an unwanted cover crop of it? I pull as much as I can manage and feed it to the chickens. It’s a miserable, invasive pest.
Amy says
I think purslane is an excellent living mulch. Just pull it up if it’s touching the stems of your crops, otherwise, I would let it go. It’s high in vitamin C and makes an excellent edible green. It is fertilizing the soil with potassium and other trace elements. There’s a good discussion about purslane in the comment section of my post 5 Weeds You Want In Your Garden. Happy gardening 🙂
Cindy Panian says
It’s delicious, and very good for you.
Cindy Panian says
Purslane is amazing, and delicious too. It is very nutritious. Would suggest you do a bit of research about it. You may change gourmand on it being “miserable”.
Dee says
Agree with Cindy. Purslane is a healthy plant high in Omega-3 fatty acids which are beneficial. I’ve made pickles from the thick stems of purslane which are delicious and crunchy just like regular pickles. Also blend it into a paste and spread it dehydrator sheets to dry at low heat. Use the crumbled bits in soup and salads. Excellent nutrition.
Diane Keane says
Hi Amy, I’m new to your excellent site and exploring older posts. I have a question with regard to using other plants as living mulch. Don’t they compete with the primary plants for soil nutrients and water, just like weeds would do? Thank you.
Amy says
Good question. When using a living mulch, it will need some maintenance to make sure it is acting as a benefit. For example, I plant living mulches between rows of crops, and I periodically (about once a month) cut it back so it isn’t infringing on the crop roots and is still allowing for sun and air circulation.
Another thing you can do is study the root structure of the crop as well as the root structure of the living mulch. If their root structures are similar, they will compete more readily than two different root structures. For example, a deep taproot–like dandelion–wouldn’t compete with shallow, fibrous root structure, as they receive their nutrients and water from different levels of the soil. An example of this is my swiss chard/sweet alyssum combo.
Kristine Brooks says
Hi Amy,
I am really enjoying your blog and the knowledge you share. I have a question about partially decomposed wood in the soil.
I bought a small property in New Hampshire, where the home used to be heated with a wood fired boiler. Sometime in the past 15 years or so, that system was replaced, but the pile of wood was not removed when the boiler was, so I have an area roughly 30’x30′ that has had wood rotting and decomposing in it for a very long time. I have been cleaning out the pieces of wood that are still together enough to move, but there is a lot of detritus from the length of time it has been sitting. I have been thinking that this is probably a really great place to plant my kitchen garden, but haven’t found much information about whether I need to amend the soil in any special way because of all of the wood. I am very interested in the no-till garden and wonder if I should just contour this part of the property, as it is all on a slope, and go to town. Can you give me any advice or point me in the right direction or give me the right key words to search out an answer? Much appreciated, I know you are busy gardening. Thank you for any help you can give me.
Amy says
I would think this would be excellent soil to plant in. The Back to Eden garden style is a big proponent of gardening in decomposed wood chips. You may have to experiment with what you plant there, as perennials (asparagus, fruit trees, berry bushes) and fruiting vegetables (i.e. tomatoes, peppers) may do better than your regular annual vegetables like leafy greens and root vegetables. But this is just a guess, and it’s probably the best free soil you could find. Good luck!
Jen says
How or what do you use to chop your comfrey or other large leafed cover crops into 2-3″ pieces for mulching? I have quite a bit of rhubarb I could use, but it’s so time consuming just cutting it in peices small enough to put in the compost, that I sometimes just throw it in the garbage if I’m short on time. Do you have a quick method, or is it going to always be time consuming?
Amy says
Chopping comfrey: We put the leaves in a 5-gallon bucket and shred them with hedge shears. Takes just a couple of minutes to do a bucketful. If I have just a handful of leaves then I’ll use my hand pruners. If you’re mulching under perennials, chopping isn’t entirely necessary, as the leaves will break down pretty quickly especially if tucked under existing mulch.
Also, no need to throw organic matter in the garbage! If you have whole leaves that you won’t be using for mulch, toss them into the compost bin. Creating a permaculture homestead is about closing the loop in the waste stream and taking advantage of the nutrients that your site creates for you for free. 🙂
John Scarborough says
Here in North Florida I use a similar plant for chop-n-drop mulch.
Yellow Mexican sunflower, Tithonia diversifolia, and its red/orange relative, Tithonia Rotundifolia.
They die back to the roots in a cold winter here but quickly grow out from the roots in the spring and can get to 30 feet tall. They can be cut back for green mulch several times during the summer. I have heard the mulch can match chicken manure compost for nutrition.
Michael says
Is there any reason not to plant comfrey as a living mulch in a large area around fruit trees as opposed to clover or something similar? I have a small orchard 40 feet by 75 feet and would like to avoid mulching and weeding all the time. Thanks.
Amy says
I always encourage planting comfrey under fruit trees or in a food forest area for building nutrient-rich soil. It will prevent weeds underneath its giant leaves, but overall, it’s not meant to be a ground cover. You’ll still have spaces between the plants that would be open to catching weed seeds.
A multi-species cover crop will be great for keeping weeds out as well as attracting beneficial insects. It’s also low maintenance because you can mow it once or twice a year to maintain and provide natural mulch.
Underneath the trees you could sow seeds like clover, yarrow, and dill along with the comfrey, and in the walkways you could seed ryegrass. This will add nutrients, bring in a lot of beneficial insects to help with pest control, as well as pollinators.
Coleen Goodwin says
Hi Amy!
I am contemplating using my chipped blackberry cuttings (green leaves and stems) as mulch but I’ve heard that this is practice may contribute to disease from the clippings to infect the soil and plants. But, I’ve heard that about leaves and other clippings, and have used other chipped materials in the past without disease infestation. Please help!
Thank you,
Coleen
Amy says
I’ve heard this, too, but in general, I use my cuttings as mulch unless I’ve noticed disease or pest problems. Michael Phillips, author of The Holistic Orchard, also recommends using prunings from fruit trees and berry bushes as mulch. (ad)
Candace says
A question for you Amy: can I cut up and use iris leaves/blades as a green mulch in my perennial garden or raised vegetable beds? I live in northwest Montana and we have long freezing winters. Not sure that’s relevant but thought I’d add it just in case.
Thanks for your help and I love your site!
Amy says
Absolutely!
Liesal says
Do you have any tips to keep leaf mulch in your yard where you want it? I’m transitioning to no-dig in my traditionally tilled vegetable garden, and I was so excited to chop up all our leaves from our huge maples, but they all blew away with our latest storm. It’s even a fenced in area.
Amy says
You can wait to spread leaf mulch until after it’s been saturated by a rain, which weighs it down. Or you could spread it just before a rain, which will encourage it to settle in place and adhere to the soil.
Lael says
I’ve started using broadleaf plantain, dandelions and other similar “weeds” as mulch, mostly for my containers. Also I’ve started using okra leaves as mulch, next year I’ll plant more just for the leaves.