Tenth Acre Farm

Permaculture for the Suburbs

  • Home
  • About
  • Start Here
  • Categories
    • Edible Landscaping
    • Garden Planning
    • Growing & Using Herbs
    • Growing Fruit Crops
    • Growing Vegetables
    • Permaculture Gardening
    • Rainwater Harvesting
  • Subscribe
  • Resources
  • My Book
  • Contact
Home / Article / How to Plant a Hedgerow

How to Plant a Hedgerow

Last Updated February 17th, 2021 by Amy 25 Comments

17.7Kshares
A hedgerow can offer beauty, productivity, biodiversity, and much more! Discover how to plant a hedgerow to meet your needs.

A hedgerow can offer beauty, productivity, biodiversity, and much more! Discover how to plant a hedgerow to meet your needs on your permaculture homestead.

This page may contain affiliate links. Please read my disclosure for more info.

A hedgerow can offer beauty, productivity, biodiversity, and much more! Discover how to plant a hedgerow to meet your needs.

A hedgerow is a narrow strip of mixed plantings, which I distinguish from a hedge—a planting of a single species.

In 10 Reasons to Plant a Suburban Hedgerow, I outlined some of the top benefits that a hedgerow can provide, including privacy, water conservation, a buffer to noise, wind, or pollution, and more.

The type of hedgerow you plant depends on the purpose you want it to serve, the sun exposure of the area, soil conditions, wildlife activity, etc.

Hedgerows are mostly comprised of perennial species. Quick-growing annual plants can fill the gaps while a young hedgerow becomes established.

For hedgerows to have the effects you desire, you should plan to maintain it for at least two years by watering and weeding while it becomes established.

Design your Hedgerow

The layout of the hedgerow depends on its desired function and location.

Hedgerows are often used along property lines but they can also be used to divide sections of a property such as animal paddocks or dividing play areas from garden areas. Hedgerows can also be utilized to manage water flow, if built as swales or contour gardens.

See: 6 Maps for the Permaculture Farm Design

Hedgerows are always longer than they are wide.

Dave Jacke, author of Edible Forest Gardens, suggests 40 feet is the critical width for creating a biologically rich and fertile ecosystem that attracts and holds beneficial insects, wildlife, and a diversity of plants; though I doubt most property owners have the space for this.

If you can swing it, a hedgerow that is at least 10 feet wide (20 feet long) is a minimum size so it can incorporate several rows of plants to be effective. I think hedgerows are beneficial no matter their size, so even a single row of plantings along a property line can do wonders.

By comparison, farmland hedgerows can be as wide as 100 feet, stretching a minimum of 60 feet from a water source in riparian zones.

Hedgerows have a lot of similarities with food forests and fruit tree guilds.

Nanking Cherry hedgerow

This hedgerow bordering the house includes nanking cherry and a mixture of herbs & flowers.

Photo Credit: daryl_mitchell Flickr

Prepare the Planting Area

On large-scale properties, it might be necessary to till the hedgerow area before planting. Add 2 inches of compost and let rest for two weeks before planting.

For a small hedgerow, sheet mulching is a healthier approach.

To sheet mulch the area, cut back any unwanted growth and remove unwanted woody plants.

Use a digging fork to aerate the soil throughout. Cover the area in cardboard, overlapping the ends so that the soil is entirely covered. Amend hardpan soil with a layer of aged manure topped with shredded leaves or straw, then top with at least 4 inches of compost soil (homemade compost or store-bought compost soil).

Wait two weeks before planting.

If you deal with poison ivy in your hedgerow area, read about how to kill poison ivy first.

Your hedgerow can include a variety of canopy and understory trees, fruit trees, berry and nut bushes, flowering and native trees and shrubs, evergreen trees and bushes, and herbs, flowers, and ground covers, your choice of which depends on how much space you have and what you hope to accomplish.

Choose Your Foundational Plantings

The tallest plantings establish the foundation of the hedgerow. In a residential setting with a 20-foot long hedgerow, you’ll likely skip tall canopy trees and start with dwarf trees or shrubs as your base planting.

Organize your hedge plantings so the tallest species are closest to the property line or fence. Work inward to layer your plants from tallest to shortest.

Give each plant 75% of its suggested plant spacing. This ensures that the hedge is full and compact at maturity.

Privacy hedge

Photo Credit: hardworkinghippy Flickr

For example, dwarf apple trees are expected to get 8-10 feet wide. (See: 5 Steps to Planting Fruit Trees.) If I were planting a row of apple trees in my hedge, I would plant them about 8 feet away from the property line or fence to ensure I had enough space for harvest on the fenceline, spacing the trees about 7.5 feet from one another width-wise. Alternating them with evergreen bushes would help with privacy, if that is a concern.

Mahonia, also called grape holly, is an evergreen shrub that reaches around 4-8 feet wide. It can be used in privacy and wildlife hedgerows. The purple berries are edible for humans, too, and make a delicious jelly. I would plant Mahonia about 4 feet away from the property line, and 6 feet from each other to accommodate the maximum width.

Choose Your Support Plantings

Shrubs, herbs, flowers, and ground covers all make up the support species of your hedgerow.

Now it’s time to plant the second tallest plants: slightly in front of, and staggered in between, your foundation plants.

For example, to plant hazelnut shrubs that are expected to reach 10 feet wide, I would plant them about 7.5 feet away from the base of the apple trees.

Support plantings that face south or west receive more sunlight over time (in the northern hemisphere) than plants facing north or east. You’ll have to choose appropriate plants for the sun exposure.

You may weave a walking path into the design so you can easily visit and maintain the area without stepping on plants or compacting soft garden soil.

Continue adding species according to diminishing height and width away from the property line. Red currants expected to reach 3-5 feet wide would be staggered about 5.5 feet in front of the hazelnuts, for example.

Staghorn Sumac

Staghorn sumac berries provide a striking contrast in the landscape. Find them at the edge of forest in partial shade or on riparian slopes. Deer resistant. Red sumac berries are edible. In a hedgerow, the leaves turn a beautiful flaming red in the fall.

Photo Credit: Ron Schott Flickr

Shade-tolerant herbaceous perennials can be planted underneath the trees and shrubs, or try growing mushrooms in an edible hedge. Sun-loving wildflower seeds and clover can be sprinkled throughout to fill in the spaces until everything is established.

Start small: You don’t have to plant the entire hedgerow at once. Plant it in sections or in layers—all tall trees first, or one length of fence at a time—so you’re not overwhelmed.

When to Plant

Hedgerows contain mostly perennial species, which are best planted in the spring or fall. Plant perennials on a cloudy day, especially in hot weather, to reduce shock.

After planting, water and mulch well to reduce weeds.

Would you like to learn more about using the power of plants to improve the biodiversity of your garden, reduce maintenance, and increase yield?

You’ll find loads of information just like this in my book, The Suburban Micro-Farm.

The Suburban Micro-Farm Book

What to Plant

The plants you choose depend on the function and location of your hedgerow. For most functions, a mixture of trees, shrubs, nitrogen fixing plants, and herbs create the most successful hedgerow.

To create a self-sustaining ecosystem, choose plants that perform more than one function. For example, a holly bush can be a windbreak, privacy screen, and bird habitat. Yarrow attracts pollinators and beneficial insects, helps to break up clay soil and accumulates nutrients for fertilizer.

Below is a list of various plant species that do well in a hedgerow, but this isn’t an exhaustive list, and your hedgerow need not be limited to these suggestions. There are many more plants beyond these suggestions, and you may need to do more research to find plants that are appropriate to your climate.

serviceberry in bloom

A serviceberry is in spring bloom and it won’t be long until berry season. Because serviceberry loses its leaves in winter, evergreens are planted behind it for privacy.

Photo Credit: Distant Hill Gardens Flickr

Plant a Fedge

A food hedge, or hedge made of edible species, is sometimes referred to as a fedge. Below I’ve noted species that have edible components with an asterisk.

Tall Trees (windbreak)

  • Alder
  • Black Locust
  • Hackberry*
  • Oak*
  • Poplar
  • Walnut*

Evergreens (for Privacy, Noise Reduction, Windbreaks, and Wildlife)

  • Boxwoods
  • Holly Bushes
  • Junipers
  • Mahonia*
  • Yews

Edible Species (For Wildlife and Food Forests)*

Edible Understory Trees:

Consider dwarf or semi-dwarf for small hedgerows.

  • American persimmon
  • Apple
  • Cherry
  • Cornelian cherry
  • Crabapple
  • American Hawthorn
  • Hazelnut
  • Mulberry
  • Pawpaw
  • Peach
  • Pear
  • Plum

Edible Understory Bushes:

  • Aronia
  • Blueberry
  • Currant
  • Elderberry
  • Gooseberry
  • Goumi
  • Nanking cherry
  • Rose
  • Serviceberry
  • Staghorn sumac

See also: How to Grow a Jelly Garden

apple trees in orchard

This strip of apple trees could easily be turned into a hedgerow with underplantings of berry bushes and herbs, and a backdrop of evergreen shrubs.

Flowering Plants (For Beauty, Fragrance, Beneficial Insects & Pollinators)

Flowering Understory Trees & Bushes:

  • False Indigo
  • Flowering dogwood*
  • Lilac*
  • Maryland Senna
  • Red Osier dogwood
  • Witch Hazel*

Flowering Herbs for Sunny Edges :

  • Anise Hyssop*
  • Calendula*
  • Clover*
  • Dandelion*
  • Fennel*
  • Russian Comfrey
  • Yarrow

Nitrogen Fixers

Nitrogen is an essential nutrient for self-maintaining ecosystems. Nitrogen fixing plants convert nitrogen in the air into a useable form in the soil for the plants that surround it. It is recommended that 50% of your plantings be nitrogen fixers. So if you choose 3 fruit trees, 3 berry bushes, and 3 herbs, then consider interspersing an equal number of nitrogen fixers throughout the area. This is a nice list of additional nitrogen fixers.

Nitrogen-Fixing Trees:

  • Alder
  • Black Locust

Nitrogen-Fixing Shrubs:

  • False Indigo
  • Goumi*
  • Maryland Senna

See: 4 Berry Bushes that Fertilize, Too!

Nitrogen-Fixing Herbs:

  • Crimson Clover*
  • Dutch White Clover*
  • Lead Plant
  • Round Headed Bush Clover
  • White Prairie Clover
  • Yellow Bush Lupine
Goumi

Goumi is an excellent choice for a fedge, or food hedge. Beautiful with delicious berries, it fixes nitrogen in the soil, too. Because it loses its leaves in the winter, it was planted in front of an evergreen species to keep privacy.

Photo Credit: ideath Flickr

Nutrient Accumulators (make nutrient-rich mulch)

  • Apple*
  • Black Locust
  • Clover*
  • Dandelion*
  • Flowering Dogwood*
  • Lupine
  • Russian Comfrey
  • Walnut*
  • Yarrow

Plants for Wet & Erosion Prone Areas (Riparian zones)

  • Cattail*
  • Elderberry*
  • Flowering Dogwood*
  • Gooseberry*
  • Hazelnut*
  • Highbush cranberry*
  • Lilac*
  • Perennial Sunflower
  • Miscanthus grasses (native, non-spreading)
  • Pussy Willow
  • Staghorn Sumac*

See: 12 Perennial Crops for Wet Soil

Shade Tolerant Plants

  • Currant*
  • Elderberry*
  • Flowering Dogwood*
  • Gooseberry*
  • Hazelnut*
  • Serviceberry*
  • Spicebush*
  • Staghorn Sumac*
  • Witch Hazel*
Elderberry

Here a flowering elderberry bush creates a nice hedgerow along a riparian zone. Elderberries also do well in partially shady areas.

Photo Credit: free photos Flickr

Deer Resistant Plants (Read: NOT Deer Proof. Protect while young.)

Deer-Resistant Trees:

  • American holly
  • Birch
  • Buckeye
  • Mimosa
  • Pawpaw*
  • Pine*

Deer-Resistant Shrubs:

  • Barberry
  • Boxwood
  • Cypress
  • Holly bushes
  • Juniper
  • Leatherleaf Mahonia*
  • Red Elderberry
  • Staghorn Sumac*
  • Viburnum

Deer-Resistant Herbaceous Plantings*:

  • Anise hyssop
  • Calendula (annual)
  • California poppy (annual)
  • Catmint
  • Daffodil
  • Fern
  • Lavender
  • Lemon balm
  • Marjoram
  • Oregano
  • Ramps
  • Rosemary
  • Sage
  • Sweet alyssum (annual)
  • Sweet woodruff
  • Tarragon
  • Thyme

Plant a medicinal garden in your hedgerow!

Some of my favorite herbs for the medicine garden are listed above, such as fennel, lavender, and lemon balm.

Hedgerow Maintenance

Hedgerows require some maintenance in the first 1-4 years. Water your plants in dry periods, plant in a rain-harvesting swale, or install an irrigation system. Continue to mulch annually to maintain control over the weeds.

Once the system is established at full size, the hedgerow should be a self-maintaining ecosystem that requires very little maintenance.

Additional Resources:

  • Planning an Edible Fedge, or Food Hedge
  • Replanting Hedgerows using Permaculture Design
  • Suburban Hedgerows: Grow a Living Fence
  • Hedges and Hedgelaying: A Guide to Planting, Management and Conservation
  • The Suburban Micro-Farm: Modern Solutions for Busy People

What will you plant in your hedgerow?

READ NEXT:

  • All About Aronia: Grow Your Own Superfood Berries
  • Benefits of the Edible Forest Garden
  • Here’s a Quick Way to Terrace a Hill
17.7Kshares

Filed Under: Article Tagged With: Building Soil Fertility, Edible Landscaping, Growing Fruit Crops, Permaculture Gardening

« 10 Reasons to Plant a Hedgerow
Does your Permaculture Garden Need Daffodils? »

Permaculture Mini Course

Related Articles

  • 10 Reasons to Plant a Hedgerow
  • 8 Reasons to Grow Perennial Sunflowers
  • All About Aronia: Grow Your Own Superfood Berries
  • How to Build a Permaculture Fruit Tree Guild

Comments

  1. Kami says

    March 26, 2015 at 10:52 pm

    Thank you so much Amy for such a nice and thorough part 2 to the hedgerow theme. I am inspired, and I have a better vision of what I will do on my property! I like the idea of using holly for evergreens as a backdrop, though I’ll have to find a variety that works for zone 4. I have a significant slope on my property line, which will will make privacy more difficult to achieve, but am also thinking of having a swale on contour, which I have never done. And the advice to start small or in stages or layers is reassuring. The idea of putting in a hedgerow seems very daunting otherwise, especially for someone who hasn’t planted a tree since gradeschool!

    Reply
    • Amy says

      March 27, 2015 at 9:13 am

      It sounds like you’re going about this project in the right way. No need to be in a hurry 🙂 We have always completed projects in our yard in stages, and it’s always worked out for the best because observations after each stage revealed things we hadn’t thought of initially, changing how we wanted to proceed.

      As far as your slope, it sounds like you will have to choose some of the taller shrubs to help with privacy.

      How very exciting for you! Good luck on your project and let us know how it goes!

      Reply
    • Greg says

      December 26, 2016 at 8:19 pm

      Wow , nicely said. My hedge started 25 years ago as a cut and layed over. I just cut into the trunks enough to lay them over at about 45 degrees .and intertangled the small branches. It’s now moose proof. Nothing was planted I just used what was growing there. Now it needs to be topped as it it shading the garden. It’s narrow about 2 meters thick , but interlocked. It’s on a natural berm about 3to4 meters tall , enough so moose and deer have to go around the garden no through.
      Narrow enough so fox and owls gan get to mice under it.

      Reply
      • Amy says

        January 8, 2017 at 3:53 pm

        This sounds like an excellent, low maintenance hedge!

        Reply
  2. Linda says

    June 1, 2015 at 2:55 pm

    Thanks for a great article. I’ve been working on establishing a small hedgerow by a portion of our sidewalk to replace the old fence. So far the most success I’ve had is with Nootka rose, snow berries, and high bush cranberries, all native to my area in the Pacific Northwest.

    Reply
    • Amy says

      June 2, 2015 at 9:30 am

      That sounds like a winning combination!

      Reply
  3. peggy says

    July 26, 2015 at 2:50 pm

    I’m sharing this article on my page. I wish I could just use your list of plants. I live in the high dessert and it’s hard finding plants that will thrive in the dry climate which burns everything up in the summer and freezes the survivors in the winter.

    Reply
    • Amy says

      July 26, 2015 at 7:14 pm

      The desert isn’t my area of expertise, but your best bet is to check with your local county extension office for your climate-appropriate edible perennials.

      Reply
  4. Kelly Curry says

    January 20, 2016 at 11:00 am

    Hi Amy!

    GREAT posts on hedgerows! I have a question…we’re in a new construction home (in Charlottesville, Va) and we have a fence 5′ in from our property line (HOA rule). We had Green Giant Arborvitae planted along the outside of the fence (for privacy) BEFORE I started reading about hedgerows. In hind sight, I would’ve done a hedgerow but since we already have the arborvitae my question is what do you think about adding blueberry shrubs, brambles, climbing roses, wildflowers and maybe a small serviceberry tree on the INSIDE of the fence to create a kind of hedgerow? Would that work? Also, what roses would you recommend?

    Thanks!
    Kelly

    Reply
    • Amy says

      January 22, 2016 at 4:15 pm

      Kelly,

      Planting arborvitaes for privacy is totally fine! Your HOA neighbors will probably appreciate a very neat-looking buffer. I think your idea of adding edibles for you and wildlife on the inside of the fence sounds fantastic. Just be sure to plan out little pathways throughout this hedgerow area so you can get to everything for harvesting and maintenance. I’m not super-knowledgeable about climbing rose varieties, so look for ones that specifically call out a large hip size.

      Great idea 🙂

      Reply
  5. Vivien G says

    January 6, 2018 at 11:32 am

    A very interesting article – I placed a link on my desktop so that I can keep referring to it.
    One question: you mentioned that your apple trees are far away enough from the property line to harvest, but later mentioned planting hazelnut shrubs only 7 1/2 ft away from the apples. How are you going to prune or pick the apples?
    I planted my “hedgerow” 4 years ago when we moved to a city lot from a farm because the neighbour’s are close! It’s only 80 ft long by about 30 ft deep, with a winding path. The previous owners had planted some spruce trees and we had two 20 ft trees planted so that we had a quick start. (We’re in our 70s – not a lot of time to wait for trees to grow!) I go walking in a nearby woodland to look at what grows there. Then found a local native plant nursery that sells the (native) trees and shrubs. The neighbours are already almost completely hidden in the summer, and it looks so nice! The one type of plant I am avoiding are thorny ones. I had lots of holly and roses on the farm, but now I’m done – they are beautiful but the length of time they bloom is not worth the high maintenance and wounds. (I live close to Niagara Fall, Canada, Carolinian zone)

    Reply
    • Amy says

      January 24, 2018 at 8:27 pm

      Yes, good point. The key is to only leave just enough room to get through. If you leave too much room, it’s no longer a hedgerow. In my example, I was using dwarf apple trees, so there’s more room to move.

      Reply
  6. Caryn says

    April 9, 2018 at 2:02 pm

    The Maximillian sunflower has edible rhizomes and the seeds can be used for oil, in addition to being a lovely flowering plant for a hedgerow.

    Reply
  7. Jennifer Montgomery says

    June 17, 2018 at 1:51 pm

    Thank you for the insight on this topic. I’ll be using some of your suggestions to create a (mainly) floral hedgerow. We live at 7000 feet and get about 30 feet of snow per year, so I’ll be looking to plant mainly root hardy perennials along with a few low and fast growing shrubs……

    Reply
    • Amy says

      June 25, 2018 at 1:33 pm

      Sounds like a plan!

      Reply
  8. Joni says

    May 13, 2019 at 9:48 pm

    Hi Amy,
    I want to plant a hedgerow to keep the local farm dogs off of our property, as well as keep young children and future livestock in. I’m having a hard time envisioning how I plant it thick enough for that purpose, while also leaving enough room to harvest. Should I plant a very dense line of mixed, inedible evergreens and thorny things on the property line and then just plant my edibles with access paths within that border?

    Reply
    • Amy says

      May 17, 2019 at 9:07 am

      In your situation, I’m not sure a hedgerow can replace the need for a physical fence. That’s because a hedgerow takes a long time to mature and fill out. Planting a hedgerow is definitely a long game. A fence with a hedgerow on the inside may be a more functional and economical solution. Hedgerow plants can get expensive, and the fence may not require you to plant as many layers all at once.

      Reply
  9. Joni says

    May 28, 2019 at 12:00 pm

    Thank you for your response. I’ve been giving the matter a lot of consideration. I am thinking of putting a fence up, then starting with a few hedge plants and propogating from them to slowly fill in all around the property line. I already have young willows in abundance that pop up on their own everywhere anyways and easily reroot. I really appreciate all the wonderful information you share. It has been very helpful to me in my homestead journey!

    Reply
    • Amy says

      May 28, 2019 at 3:10 pm

      That sounds like a great plan. Best wishes on your hedgerow and homesteading journey! 😀

      Reply
  10. Pamela White says

    October 14, 2019 at 10:11 am

    Excellent article and very helpful.
    I do have one negative comment. It has been found that the miscanthus senesis is quite self seeding. There are other well behaved grasses to consider: prairie grasses, some pennisetums and an ornamental grass called ‘karl foerster’.

    Reply
  11. Debbie says

    October 14, 2019 at 1:22 pm

    Hi! Loving your articles, thank you! Might you have any insights for plants along a narrow area on the outside of our fence? We’re on a corner residential lot next to a somewhat busy road. There’s about 18 inches….with a rock wall of about 4ft, down to about 8ft of city property (of overgrown shrubs, blackberries, and such. Looking for noise reduction yet adding to the quaint yard on the other side. Grateful for any insights!

    Reply
  12. Kayce says

    February 1, 2020 at 7:09 pm

    Such an excellent article and rich in resources. And such an important subject. Interfaces such as hedgerows and forest edges support more wildlife per square foot than either forest or meadow, and they serve so many functions.

    I am enjoying your 10 day class a lot as well. I need to study the materials more, and to help me along, I went and bought one of your books.

    In your writings, please consider writing about how to maintain hedles. I grapple with many invasive vines in our area, like poison ivy, wisteria, honeysuckle, kudzu and trumpet vine. They appear and soon they kill the tree or shrub they climb on. Also, the birds plant privet hedge and wax myrtle, which need to be constantly removed . The wax myrtle is a veritable torch.

    Thanks much.

    Reply
    • Amy says

      February 12, 2020 at 2:17 pm

      As mentioned above, it’s important to give your hedgerow some attention in the first 1-4 years. Weed them at least once per season, keep them hydrated, and mulch deeply. After that time period, one or two weeding sessions a year should do it. The key is to catch the aggressive weeds while they’re young. Unfortunately, there’s no secret trick for managing them after they’ve established themselves.

      Reply
  13. Rhonda says

    May 23, 2020 at 5:59 am

    You mention a deer fedge in your book: a hedge with food for deer on one side and food for humans on the other. I know deer eat practically anything, but what plants are most appropriate for the deer-side of the hedge?

    Thank you!

    Reply
    • Amy says

      June 1, 2020 at 2:48 pm

      The fedge concept is really great, but can take years to get going, as the deer will likely trample through a young hedge unless it is caged for at least a couple of years. In addition, the mature hedge should be several layers deep to really discourage the deer to stick to “their side”, so you have to be mindful of the space this strategy requires.

      Because of that, I think simple fencing is a good strategy. Fencing, with a deer hedge on the outside and a human hedge on the inside, eventually grows up and is barely visible but provides an extra deterrent and motivation for them to “stay on their side”.

      You’re right, deer are resilient and will love to eat anything that isn’t listed as “deer resistant”. Any fruit trees and berry bushes will be popular, as will hazelnut or filbert shrubs.

      Reply

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.

Author Box

Amy StrossHi, I’m Amy!

I'm the author of
The Suburban Micro-Farm:
Modern Solutions for Busy People
.

Join me as I share my permaculture gardening adventures in the suburbs.

Popular Articles

Grow the Best Cucumbers with These 12 Steps: Cucumbers can be a tricky crop to grow for many gardeners. This guide reviews the growing needs of cucumbers and some strategies for minimizing pest and disease.
7 Ways to Improve the Quality of Your Soil: Good quality soil is essential for a healthy and abundant garden. Here are seven ways to transform ailing, lifeless soil into rich, black gold.

Topics

  1. Backyard Composting
  2. Building Soil Fertility
  3. Edible Landscaping
  4. Garden Planning
  5. Growing and Using Herbs
  6. Growing Fruit Crops
  7. Growing Vegetables
  8. Permaculture Gardening
  9. Rainwater Harvesting
  10. Suburban Homesteading
Tenth Acre Farm Logo
  • Facebook
  • Instagram
  • Pinterest
  • RSS
  • Twitter

About  |  Contact  |  Advertise  |  Disclosure  |  Privacy

As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

Copyright © 2021 · Tenth Acre Farm by Twisted Creek press